Published on
October 25, 2025
The train-ferry connection between Villa San Giovanni and Messina has been an integral part of Italy’s travel culture for years, providing a unique opportunity to experience both rail and sea travel. This iconic service offers passengers a remarkable view as a train is loaded onto a ferry and crosses the Strait of Messina, one of Europe’s most dramatic bodies of water. It has long been cherished for its scenic views and the spectacle of the train making the crossing. However, the service now faces an uncertain future due to a €13.5 billion suspension bridge project proposed by the Italian government. This bridge, intended to replace the ferry service, is scheduled for completion by 2033, which raises significant concerns about the long-term viability of this unique and historic travel tradition.
The Daily Ritual of the Train-Ferry Crossing
For many years, the train-ferry service from Villa San Giovanni to Messina has been more than just a way to travel; it is a cherished tradition that connects the island of Sicily with the mainland. Each day, the Intercity Notte train undergoes a precise and well-coordinated procedure. The train is split into carriages, which are then carefully loaded onto a ferry. Once the ferry reaches the other side of the strait, the carriages are reassembled, and the train continues its journey to either Palermo or Syracuse. This routine has been a part of daily life for generations, offering a distinctive and unforgettable travel experience.
Over time, this ferry ride has evolved into much more than a simple transport service. It has become a cultural occasion and a symbol of the connection between Sicily and the Calabria region. People from all walks of life—locals, tourists, and families—look forward to this short but memorable crossing. However, this longstanding tradition is now at risk. The Italian government has revived plans to build a suspension bridge across the Strait of Messina, with the aim of replacing the ferry service. While some argue that the bridge would modernize the region’s infrastructure, others question whether the money should be better spent on more urgent projects. The uncertainty surrounding the future of the ferry service has left many concerned about the fate of this cultural and historical link.
Experiencing the Scenic Journey Across Italy
In February 2025, the Intercity Notte train journey began with an air of anticipation. At that time, the proposal for the suspension bridge was still in its early stages, and the ferry crossing seemed to be a well-established part of the experience. My partner and I were on an extensive journey, traveling from Nottingham to Sicily, passing through France and Turin before reaching Milano Centrale. From there, we boarded the 1,489-kilometer sleeper train headed south toward Syracuse, the longest sleeper train service in Italy.
As the train set off at 19:40, the night enveloped the train, passing over the stunning Cinque Terre coast. Inside the train, the atmosphere was intimate and peaceful—families chatting, an elderly man sipping wine, and a couple with their Italian greyhound. The rhythmic motion of the train, interrupted only by occasional announcements at dimly lit stations, set the tone for a relaxing journey. By the next morning, we arrived at Villa San Giovanni, where the train was decoupled and transferred to the ferry for the crossing over the Strait of Messina. This transition felt completely natural, blending both engineering and nature seamlessly as the ferry made its way across the water. The ferry ride itself was not only a scenic highlight but also an unforgettable moment in the overall journey.
The Historical Significance of the Train-Ferry Service
The use of ferries to transport trains began in the late 19th century, when expanding rail networks encountered natural obstacles like large bodies of water. The Strait of Messina ferry service was introduced in 1899, and it remained one of the few operational train-ferry routes in Europe. Other famous train-ferry connections, such as the Puttgarden-Rødby route between Germany and Denmark, and the Sassnitz-Trelleborg service between Germany and Sweden, have been discontinued in recent years. As a result, the Strait of Messina service is now the only remaining train-ferry route in Europe, making it a rare and historically significant link between Sicily and the mainland.
As Europe modernized its transportation systems, many train-ferry routes were replaced by tunnels or bridges. However, the Strait of Messina crossing has remained a testament to the enduring connection between rail and ferry travel. Despite the rise of more modern infrastructure, this service continues to serve as a symbol of Italy’s commitment to preserving traditional travel methods while adapting to new technological advancements.
A Social Experience: Connecting Communities Through the Ferry
For Messina residents and Sicilians, the train-ferry service represents much more than just a way to travel. Gioia, an English teacher from Catania, explains how the ferry crossing offers a rare opportunity for social interaction. Passengers are given the chance to connect with strangers, engage in conversations, and share stories during the 20-minute crossing. In a world where modern travel often discourages such interaction, this brief yet meaningful exchange fosters a sense of community that is difficult to find elsewhere.
In addition to the social aspect, the ferry ride also provides an immersive experience in Sicilian culture. A beloved tradition on the ferry is stopping by the arancini counter to enjoy these iconic stuffed rice balls. The eastern Sicilian variety of arancini, shaped like cones to represent Mount Etna, is different from the round ones from Palermo. These differences symbolize the island’s diverse culinary heritage, offering travelers a deeper understanding of Sicilian culture. Salvatore, a vendor from Messina, recalls how many passengers exclaim “We’re home!” when they spot the Madonna statue at the entrance to Messina Harbour. This statue, which has stood since the 1st century, is an emotional symbol of homecoming, making it a meaningful part of the journey for many travelers.
The Future of the Ferry Service: Uncertainty Looms
Despite its historical and cultural significance, the future of the Intercity Notte ferry service is in jeopardy. The suspension bridge project, which is expected to be completed by 2033, has generated mixed reactions. Supporters of the bridge argue that it will modernize the region’s infrastructure and improve connectivity between Sicily and the mainland, which could lead to economic growth. However, critics fear that the bridge will become a “cathedral in the desert”, a costly and underused structure if it is not integrated properly into the region’s development. There are concerns that the bridge could drain resources from more urgent infrastructure projects.
Gioia has raised concerns about the proposed bridge, calling it a “dangerous joke” due to the potential for corruption and mismanagement. Jansan Favazzo, a philosophy researcher from Messina, shares these concerns, suggesting that without proper investment in the surrounding region, the bridge may fail to achieve its intended goals. The uncertainty surrounding the ferry service’s future adds to the concerns. Many travelers have come to view the ferry as an integral part of their journey, and its potential discontinuation would leave a gap in the travel experience for both locals and tourists.
The Cultural and Economic Impact of the Bridge
If the suspension bridge is built, it is likely that the train-ferry service will be discontinued. For many Sicilians, the ferry represents more than just a mode of transport; it has become a cultural symbol that connects Sicily with the mainland. For tourists, it offers a chance to experience the natural beauty of the Strait of Messina while also immersing themselves in the rich history and culture of Sicily. The loss of this service would disrupt daily commutes, hinder tourism, and deprive future generations of the opportunity to experience one of Europe’s last remaining train-ferry services.
The construction of the bridge could also have broader implications for the European travel industry. Travelers who have grown accustomed to the scenic beauty of the ferry ride may be faced with a more modern, yet less picturesque, method of crossing the Strait of Messina. While some may view the bridge as a step toward progress, others may mourn the loss of a cherished tradition. The change in infrastructure could alter how travelers experience Sicily and Calabria, and it may set a precedent for other regions in Europe that still preserve such traditional travel routes.
A Defining Moment for Travel in Italy
As the Italian government moves forward with its plans for the suspension bridge across the Strait of Messina, the future of the train-ferry service remains uncertain. The completion of the bridge will undoubtedly alter the travel experience for those crossing between Sicily and the mainland, and its impact could be felt across the European travel industry. The train-ferry crossing, which has been a fixture of Sicilian life for over a century, represents an important piece of Italy’s cultural heritage. Its potential loss would mark the end of a longstanding tradition, one that has become a unique and memorable experience for countless travelers. The fate of the train-ferry service will have a profound effect on Italy’s future travel landscape, as the country grapples with how to balance modernization with the preservation of cultural traditions.
